Thursday, April 26, 2012
Destinations
&Travel
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By Suzette Barta times, after alight African tor to the Kibale Forest
In the early part of the
Twentieth Century, when
Uganda was still a Brit-
ish protectorate, Winston
Churchill journeyed
to the country and was
known to have traveled
the Nile Corridor and to
have visited the beauti-
ful Murchison Falls.
Churchill later wrote,
"For magnificence, for
variety of form and color,
for profusion of brilliant
life -- bird, insect, rep-
tile, beast -- for vast
scale -- Uganda is truly
"the Pearl of Africa" (My
African Journey, 1908).
More than a century
later, Uganda might best
be described as a diamond
in the rough.
While Churchill's trav-
els (and later those of
Theodore Roosevelt and
Ernest Hemingway) took
him to northern Uganda,
southwestern Uganda also
fulfills Churchill's claims
about this country. The
Rwenzori Mountain range
serves as a backdrop for
stunning African sun-
sets. Safaris in Queen
Elizabeth National Park
reveal wildlife varying
from brilliantly-plumed
birds to cautious mother
elephants, protecting their
calves. Wild and culti-
vated flora abounds in
the colors of the rainbow,
from reds and oranges to
: blues and violets. Some-
rain, the rainbow itself is
revealed over the tops of
the abundantly growing
acacia trees. It's the lucky
photographer who is able
to capture such grandeur.
Fort Portal is the
outdoorsman's para-
dise. With the Rwenzori
Mountains still visible to
the west and the Kibale
National Forest to the
east, there is plenty of
terrain for hiking, swim-
ming, and viewing. The
slightly cooler temperate
climate, due to higher
elevations, adds to the
appeal of this area.
Among the communi-
ties of southern Uganda,
it is Fort Portal which is
perhaps the most accom-
modating to the tourist
market. Tour guides may
be arranged to lead excur-
sions to Mahoma Falls, a
small, but lovely waterfall
on the Mahoma River.
Perhaps the visitor will
have lunch at the lovely
Ndali Lodge or climb to
the "Top of the World" for
a photo opportunity with
the most amazing scenery
as a backdrop.
And don't forget the
primates. Kibale National
"Forest is one of the best
destinations in Africa for
Chimpanzee tracking.
Most of the structured
Gorilla Tracking or
Chimp Tracking safari
tours will take the visi-
The equator cuts across Uganda.
near Fort Portal and will
probably spend at least
one night in a hotel in
Fort Portal.
The scenery and wild-
life are certainly gems
in Uganda's crown, and
the people only add to
the sparkle. The people
of Uganda are gently
reserved and often speak
with a soft voice. Their
English is perfect, yet
thick with their native
accent, perhaps influ-
enced by the commonly-
spoken Swahili language.
While a smile may not
be their immediate reac-
tion to your greeting, if
you can coax one out
of them, it is worth the
wait. A Ugandan's smile
lights up their face, and
brings a sparkle to their
eyes. And when they say
those words of greeting,
"You are Welcome," you
know that you have made
a friend and that you are,
indeed, welcome in their
country.
Despite the captivat-
ing qualities of both the
people and the landscape,
Uganda remains an
underdeveloped country,
and travel to Uganda is
not for the casual tour-
ist. The hot, still air in
the airport at Entebbe
immediately reminds the
visitor that luxuries, such
as air conditioning, will
not always be available.
Other amenities tourists
might find themselves
without include hot
water, fresh drinking
water, commodes, and
reliable transportation.
Most places in Entebbe/
Kampala are not air con-
ditioned. Some of the
nicest hotels, including
the Lake Victoria Serena
Resort, are exceptions.
These hotels cater to
Western travelers and
wealthy Africans, so they
tend to make sure that hot
showers, air-condition-
ing, cold bottled water,
and even wi-fi are avail-
able. Even here though,
power outages are a daily
occurrence.
The luxury in such
hotels is somewhat tem-
pered by the knowledge
that armed guards are
stationed right outside
the veranda and that all
vehicles are searched for
bombs before they are
allowed to enter the hotel
gates. And right outside
those gates.., the most
unimaginable poverty.
Along the road to the
resort hotel, tiny shacks
are set up to sell fruits and
vegetables to local villag-
ers. Beef portions hang
over the open counter of
one such shack. Barely-
clad children sit in the dirt
in front of these shanty
structures. Some have
made toys for themselves
out of sticks, tires, paper
bags, or whatever. Men
cart all manner of items,
from forage to lumber
to charcoal to bananas,
on their bicycles on this
dirt road. Women are
working.., always work-
ing. Scrubbing laundry,
bathing babies, hoeing
potatoes planted next to
their home--often with
another baby strapped to
their back.
Oklahoma is full of trea- Saturday outing, but hardly
sure. With the reputatio n a place to take visitors.
of flat, dust bowl prairies Returning from California
and tornado after tornado, a self-proclaimed museum
outsiders miss the wonders buff, I still cringed at the
,
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By LeeAnn Barton
that are nestled in this 46 m
state. Diverse ecosystems,
Native American culture
and pioneer landmarks
abound, but less than an
hour's drive away is a
wonderful and diverse
attraction The National
Cowboy and Western
Heritage Museum.
I like many of you remem-
ber the arching frame of the
Cowboy Hall of Fame that
sat atop the hill as one exited
1-35 to 1-240. I even have
vague memories of taking a
field trip to the museum in
the late 1960's. Most of my
memories are of wall upon
wall of stuffed animals that
seemed dusty to me with
intermingled showcases of
spurs, branding irons and
the like. It was fine for a
memories of hundreds of
pairs of glass eyes peer-
ing from the walls of the
Cowboy Hall of Fame
and though it was obvious
driving past the museum
had undergone major
renovations I still waited
six years before taking a
day to take it all in. Thanks
to the vision of uncounted
western and cowboy enthu-
siasts, the National Cowboy
and Western Heritage
Museum is a force to be
reckoned with...an attrac-
tion that would make any
Oklahoman proud.
Now home to not only pio-
neer and frontier memora-
bilia to interest school chil-
dren, the museum, (NCWH
for short), is a place full of
art, art and more art. With
National Cowboy and Western Heritage Museum
changing exhibits featur-
ing specific artists' work
and western enthusiasts'
collections every season
brings something new to
view and experience at
NCWH.
Sculptures and paintings
with details that leave one
in awe are to be appreci-
ated at every turn. Works
in mediums of silver, clay,
bronze, oil and leather
leave those that enjoy
the creativity and gifting
of others fully blessed.
Appreciating the blend
of Native, western, mili-
tary and frontier cultures
emphasizes the diversity
that is Oklahoma.
Movie buffs find fulfillment
in a room full of posters,
"history and artifacts of
their favorite films and
actors from the early days
of "moving pictures" to
modem full length features.
Actors' and their families
have contributed movie
memorabilia and learning
of actors born and raised in
Oklahoma brought a sense
of pride and respect.
The National Cowboy and
Western Heritage Museum
is complemented with an
extensive gift shop. Worthy
of a stop for those who like
to shop art, this gift shop
is not full of trinket type
souvenirs. The variety of
merchandise is surpassed
only by its quality.
An on-site restaurant,
Persimmon Hill, rounds out
the day. Offering more than
burgers and fries the cuisine
is fresh and unique--even
offering an upcoming
Mother's Day brunch!
Receptions, seminars,
special events at times
require reservations; plan
in advance by checking
the website www.national
cowboymuseum.org. The
site also keeps one abreast
on changing exhibits and
upcoming sales.
No longer will I hesitate
to suggest The National
Cowboy and Western Heri-
tage Museum when guests
visit from other states. In
fact, a quiet afternoon of
drinking in the details of the
varied art is agreat way to
end a harried week, guests
or no guests.
Suzette at Mahoma Falls, a small, but lovely waterfal !
on the Mahoma River. Photos provided
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Suzette visiting a Ugandan school.
To such communi-
ties, the water hole is
the lifeline. Wherever
you see easy access to
water, villagers will be
gathered around. Boys
will be filling large
containers to gather the
family's drinking water
for the day. Women and
girls will be seen wash-
very often, will have
a bicycle. A Ugandan
can haul an unbeliev-
able load on his bicycle.
Hundreds of pounds of
green bananas make their
way from farm to market
(uphill) on the back of a
bicycle each day. This
lack of transportation is
one factor that cripples
ing laundry. Men gather "the agriculture industry
to wash yesterday's red
dust from their vans,
motorcycles, and bicy-
cles- particularly those
who will earn their day's
wage by taxiing people
around the city.
Travel around Uganda is
challenging, at best. The
streets of overcrowded
cities such as Kampala
are treacherous for the
Western driver. From the
observer's point of view,
the number one rule of the
road seems to be that the
larger vehicle always has
the right-of-way. It is not
uncommon for taxi-vans
to clip motorcycles, bicy-
cles, and even pedestri-
ans. It is also not uncom-
mon for the pedestrian to
jump up and admit it was
their fault for being too
close to traffic. Travelers
to Uganda should arrange
for vehicles and drivers
prior to arriving in the
country.
Travel in the rural areas
is not quite so treacher-
ous, but it remains a chal-
lenge for the villagers,
primarily because they
do not own motorized
forms of transportation.
A woman's bare feet
may be her sole means
of locomotion. Men,
in Uganda.
And yet, if you have
reliable transportation,
it's the travels through
rural Uganda that will
invite you fall in love
with it. Hills and valleys
covered in banana plan-
tations, seas of green tea
plants dotted with women
harvesting leaves, and
the occasional glimpse
of a zebra running with
cattle in the distance will
captivate you. As you
pass through the tiniest
villages, the voices of
the children will linger
in your head for days,
maybe for years, "How
are you? Muzungu, how
are you?"
As Churchill implied,
Uganda is a hidden trea-
sure,' rough, but with
a sparkle that cannot
be denied. If you can
brush aside the red dust
of crowded roads, the
uncertainty of electric-
ity, the unavailability
of fresh water, and the
crippling transportation
system what you will
find is...paradise The
abundant wildlife, the
exciting terrain, and the
welcoming people are
twinkling gems in Afri-
ca's Ugandan crown.
Uganda: A Diamond in the Rough
